If you’re planning to visit the “Jewel of the Italian Lakes”, you may be debating whether you should stay in Varenna or Bellagio, two of the most beautiful areas to stay in Lake Como.

Picking the right (home-away-from-home) base can help set the stage for an enjoyable trip – and help keep that dreaded FOMO at bay.

Let’s uncover the highlights – and less desirable aspects – of each town so that you can make the most of your lakeside retreat.

Bellagio or Varenna: Which town will win your vote?

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Lake Como is a large alpine lake located entirely within Italy’s Lombardy region.

Shaped like an upside-down “Y”, the lake consists of three branches that meet at the central point of Bellagio.

Varenna and Bellagio are two of the three towns (along with Menaggio) that make up what’s known as Lake Como’s “Golden Triangle”.

While we won’t be reviewing Menaggio in this particular post, basing yourself in any of the triangle towns is ideal if you’re a first-time visitor, as the towns are well-connected by ferry.

That said, let’s focus on the two towns that brought you here: Bellagio and Varenna. Regardless of which you ultimately choose as your base, you can easily access the other with a short ferry ride. In fact, you can get between the two towns in just 15 – 20 minutes!

Located in the center of the lake, Bellagio is the larger of the two towns.

Varenna, on the other hand, sits on the eastern shore of the lake, at about the mid-way point. In terms of ease of travel, Varenna has the leg up over Bellagio, as it has its own train station. This makes it easier to get into and out of the lake region without needing to rely on a ferry.

For directions on how to get to Varenna from Milan, check out my guide to Lake Como in May (a perfect time to visit, by the way)!

It’s no secret that Lake Como is one of Italy’s top luxury destinations, so you may be wondering where that leaves you in terms of travel costs.

If you’re on a budget, your best bet is to base yourself in Varenna and then visit Bellagio as a day trip.

While Varenna offers a smaller inventory of everything (restaurants, shops, etc.), it’s also about 10-20% cheaper than dining out in Bellagio.

Plus, Varenna’s train station means you can potentially save on transportation costs as compared to Bellagio.

While accommodations can be pricey in both destinations, Bellagio is specifically known for its top-tier luxury hotels. In fact, it’s home to some of the top hotels in the entire lake region.

In addition, Bellagio has a greater quantity of hotels available, as it’s the larger – and more touristed – of the two towns.

Varenna, on the other hand, has a little something to offer every visitor, from luxury lovers to more modest travelers. If you’re after a more budget-friendly accommodation such as a self-catering apartment, Varenna is the town to choose.

Personally, I’m very happy with our decision to base ourselves in Varenna. Here, we enjoyed this centrally-located, lovely terrace apartment with lake views.

That said, if you’re looking to book a more budget-friendly accommodation in Varenna (or anywhere in Lake Como for that matter), I suggest booking early (at least several months in advance). The competition for more affordable properties is steep, so you don’t want to get shut out.

I’ve shared all of my accommodation recommendations in my Lake Como neighborhood guide, so be sure to check that out as well!

Where the towns really start to show their unique colors is in their distinct atmospheres. A simple stroll around each of the two towns will give you a completely different experience.

Bellagio is synonymous with luxury and perfect for those who appreciate the finer things in life.

As soon as you step off the ferry, you’ll be greeted with a boutique-clad harbor front. Shops here are filled with high-end items such as Italian leather, silk scarves, and pashminas – and the price tags to match. Even the way people tend to dress in Bellagio seems to be more formal as compared to Varenna.

The pace of town life is also livelier than that of Varenna. There seems to be a buzz in the air with people shopping until they drop, flitting about to restaurant reservations, and gathering along the harbor.

Varenna feels much more tranquil and perhaps even “sleepier” than Bellagio, even with the many day-trippers it attracts. As you wander the idyllic harbor and ivy-clad alleyways, you can really sense the town’s historical roots as a fishing village.

Varenna also feels slower-paced and less “showy” than Bellagio. The focus seems to be more on nature here, from the fragrant flowers to the panoramic vistas.

Prioritize Varenna if you prefer:

• A more authentic Italian vibe (and less commercialism)
• A slower, more laidback pace of life
• Charming & cozy accommodations
• Flowers (and their accompanying fragrance) everywhere you go
• Smaller, more intimate restaurants
• Quieter, more tranquil evenings (when the day-trippers have gone)

…But be prepared to sacrifice:

• Exciting nightlife
• Entertainment
• A large inventory of restaurants
• Shopping (even souvenirs can be harder to come by)

Prioritize Bellagio if you prefer:

• Elegant/opulent accommodations
• A lively, “buzzing” atmosphere
• Plenty of luxury shopping opportunities (think high-end boutiques)
• A wide selection of restaurants (including Michelin-starred options)
• Lively nightlife & opportunities for entertainment

…But be prepared to sacrifice:

• Your budget
• Peace & quiet
• An authentic village feel
• Casual attire
• A train station

While the two towns are relatively small compared to many other Italian destinations, there’s still plenty to do if you look around.

Varenna is famous for two villas: Villa Cipressi and Villa Monastero, both of which are definitely worth visiting. As they’re just one minute apart from each other on foot, you could easily coordinate a back-to-back visit to see one followed directly by the other.

For Villa Cipressi, the tickets are exclusively for the gardens (outdoors).

For Villa Monastero, you can either do a tour of the House Museum plus the gardens or just visit the gardens.

Be sure to consult the visiting schedules and book in advance, as the villas are sometimes closed for private events.

One of the can’t-miss activities in Varenna – and I mean you literally can’t miss it if you’re taking the ferry at any point – is strolling Lover’s Walk. This charming pedestrian footpath connects the village center to the ferry dock (and train station).

Build some extra time into your itinerary to snap some photos from here – the views are easily some of the best in town!

I’ll admit, I found dinner here to be disappointing and underwhelming despite the Instagram hype, but you really come for the beautiful view of the colorful buildings along the harbor.

My suggestion – visit for breakfast, as it’s much harder to muck up an espresso!

While I’ve heard fabulous things about this restaurant, sadly we couldn’t experience it for ourselves as no one ever responded to my reservation requests. Bummer!

If you’d like to burn off some of that gelato, consider an invigorating hike up to Castello di Vezio. This short-but-steep ascent can take anywhere from 30 – 50 minutes (depending on your fitness level and propensity to pause for photos).

You’ll be rewarded with a magnificent view over the lake!

The center of town is admittedly small, but it’s still well-worth a visit. Here, you’ll find Chiesa di San Giorgio (Church of San Giorgio).

Beyond the usual ferrying around (which can get chaotic and stressful), a boat tour is a wonderful way to enjoy your time on the lake without all the chaos.

Sound familiar? In case you’re new to discovering this famous lake region, villa-hopping is all the rage throughout the towns. The two popular villas to see in Bellagio are Villa Melzi and Villa Serbelloni.

Again, I want to emphasize purchasing your tickets in advance!

If you like shopping for high-end goods, you’ll be right in your element in Bellagio.

From fine fabrics to designer bags and shoes, Bellagio offers luxuries galore.

If you’ve seen pictures of Lake Como circulating on Insta, chances are you’re already familiar with Salita Serbelloni.

It’s quite a steep climb to the top, but it’s definitely worth the view. Just pace yourself (and take breaks at the shops along the way, if needed).

While Varenna still takes my vote for prettiest harbor, Bellagio’s waterfront promenade is lovely as well.

Take some time to wander, admire the blooming trees, and enjoy the buzz of people.

One of the gelato hot spots in Bellagio, Gelateria del Borgo is a great stop for those hotter summer days (or literally any other time because, let’s be honest, you’re in Italy)!

While I’ve mainly focused on adult-focused activities here, I also have a separate guide on visiting Lake Como with kids, so be sure to check that out if you’re traveling as a family!

Let’s face it: While the town’s definitely have their own individuality, they’re both located along Lake Como, so neither is truly a “budget” destination.

Obviously, given their close proximity, you can also expect the alpine-meets-lakeside scenery to be equally stunning and for the weather to be equivalent in both.

And speaking of weather, if you’re planning a springtime visit, don’t miss my separate guide to Lake Como in May, where I include all of the details about weather averages!

Traveling from Varenna to Bellagio (or vice versa) is super simple and straightforward. As I mentioned earlier, you can get between the two in an easy, 15-minute ferry ride (no transfers necessary).

If you’re traveling without a car (which I recommend in my guide to how to get around Lake Como), a ferry is the easiest way to get between the two towns.

If you’re driving, I still advise you to take a ferry between the towns, but you’ll obviously need to book a car ferry or “traghetto” instead of a passenger-only one. I’d advise against driving directly between the towns as roads are narrow with many blind turns.

If you’re hoping to rent a car, do keep in mind that parking in Bellagio can be challenging (especially during summer), so you’ll want to travel in the mornings if possible.

That brings us back to our initial debate: Varenna or Bellagio? Which one makes the better base?

Of course this is a matter of personal preference, but my vote goes wholeheartedly to Varenna.

While Bellagio is undeniably beautiful, Varenna is much more aligned with my sensibilities as an (extroverted) introvert who loves nature, picturesque villages, and peaceful gardens.

Bellagio feels a bit too commercialized to me – and if I’m being honest, a bit too “Real Housewives” for my taste.

That all said, I still think that Bellagio is well worth visiting. If I had to do it all over again, I would do it the same way in terms of basing my family in Varenna and then visiting Bellagio by ferry.

Even if we had a few extra days to spend in Lake Como, I still wouldn’t stay in Bellagio. I’d much rather spend the additional days in another town (like Menaggio) and then venture out to more off-the-beaten path towns like Tremezzo.

I hope this guide has helped you make your decision – and hopefully I haven’t put you off visiting Bellagio! I think Bellagio makes a great day trip – and if you’re anything like me, you’ll be happy to return “home” to peaceful Varenna in the evening.

Which town wins you over? Let me know in the comments below!

Ready to explore beyond the Golden Triangle? Check out my other Lake Como guides:

• Best Areas to Stay in Lake Como: Neighborhood Guide & Top Accommodations
• Do You Need a Car in Lake Como? Essential Guide to How to Get Around Lake Como
• Lake Como with Kids: Toddler Travel Tips & Family-Friendly Attractions
• Lake Como in May: Guide to a Magical Springtime Visit